![]() Take “a very delicious chocolate cake,” for example, which she might serve with tangerines in the winter, berries in the summer, and apples or pears in the fall. Working closely with producers, she was exposed to farmers who were trying something new by growing ancient grains, or cultivating them as a cover crop.Īttuned to considering both the time and place of a dish, Jullapat was used to expressing seasonality through variations on a theme. With a background in seasonal kitchens - including Nancy Silverton’s Campanile, where she trained, and Cooks County, which she ran - Jullapat arrived at baking with whole grains naturally. “Once you allow yourself the permission to think of these grains as ingredients rather than tools - things that add flavour and personality rather than things that do mechanical (jobs) in your baking - then it’s really easy and fun to get creative,” says Jullapat. (Whole-grain flours are a perishable product containing germ, endosperm and bran refined flours, on the other hand, are all endosperm, extending their shelf life.) Whole-grain flours - including barley, buckwheat and rye - are becoming more readily available, making it an exciting time to be a baker. Article contentįarmers are increasingly growing ancient and heritage varieties, and millers are stone grinding them into fresh flour with character. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. ![]() Manage Print Subscription / Tax Receipt. ![]()
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